http://www.esafety.cn/blog/u/11256/index.html

散文:天山大峡谷游记(转帖)

作者[孙守仁] 发表于[2011-11-22 9:02:00]

天山大峡谷游记

 

天山南麓多峡谷也,其最著者有二,一曰温宿大峡谷,在温宿县西北百余里外,以道远而崎岖,游者廖廖。一曰库车神秘大峡谷,在库车县东北数十公里处,独库国防公路经谷口过,故游人众多。

某年夏,丽日高挂,天气酷热,余与友人五六,驱车而往。谷口狭隘,仅容一车以入。既入则豁然开朗。谷中砾石遍布,皆浑圆状,或大如脸盆,或小如鸡卵,色呈银灰,太阳底下极是夺目。环视四围绝壁耸立,壁上坑点星棋罗布,成列成行,如蜂窝状。山体褚红,灿如火焰,不著一草一木。至宽谷底,有胡杨三棵,高可数丈,枝叶繁茂。其侧石壁之上,凭空生出野西瓜一株,藤蔓四周攀援,覆满半面石壁,叶绿,泛白,极显生命之诡异与顽强。

峡谷于此分五道,其一曰男人谷。余等弃车步行而入,顿觉热浪灼面,几为窒息。峡谷愈行愈窄,两侧崖壁森峭,山石嶙嶙,其上天空一线,幽冥昏暗。其最窄处,仅容一人侧身而过。行四五里,至峡谷尽头,眼前为之开阔,山势平缓起伏,数根石柱向天而指,状若男根。男人谷乃由此得名。余等视之而大笑,想造化神工鬼斧,实非人心之可测、人力之所及也。同行某者又言,男人谷右侧亦有一谷,崖壁之上有一石穴,形如女阴,故名女人谷。以道远而时昏,余未之至也。

惜哉,此二谷者,金庸、梁羽生辈未之知也。若知之,其笔下男女主人公必会于此二谷修炼世间至阳、至阴武功也。

又一年后五月,余至库车出差,偷得半日闲暇,乃邀约数人游神秘大峡谷。到峡口,两侧石壁高耸,其上则相向合拢,成一天然石门。石门左侧壁上,一石前伸,其上踞一石犬,向天而吠,似提醒游人:已入灵山,禁止喧哗。顿生肃穆之意。攀越“门槛”,缘崖下前行,凉风扑面。右侧山脊,数峰岩石成骆驼前行状,曰骆驼峰。其下岩隙间篷草丛生,随风披拂。谷底逼仄,最宽处仅丈余。足下细沙厚积盈尺,沙下溪水暗流,间或潜出,沿崖壁下汩汩而流。又前行数百步,至圣女泉。乃右侧一天然石窟,若一圣龛。龛顶泉水渗出,下滴成冰,经年累月,积冰成柱,凹凸有致,曲线毕现,略似观音坐莲,虽至5月,犹未见化。或者泉水中有矿物质之故,冰柱呈淡绿色,端的冰清玉洁、晶莹剔透,不染半点尘埃。余立于圣龛之前,合掌而拜,顿觉心境一清,物我两忘。复前行,数曲折回环,两侧石崖时有细泉渗出,掬以饮之,清凉甘美。左侧绝壁有石阶弯曲而上,可至数十丈高处盛唐时所凿之千佛洞,曰“阿艾石窟”,窟内尚存石佛数尊。以文物保护故,已禁游人攀登。复前行百余步,有大石挡道,高十余丈,凌空横架于两崖间,其与崖壁相接处,似无所依托,几疑风吹可堕。巨石下可容游人匍匐而行。余心惴栗,与同行者相携伛偻而入。及出,冷汗发背沾衣,犹念倘若大石下堕,吾等尽成齑粉矣。竟生再世为人之叹。至是处道趋狭窄,两壁夹立,中通一线,气序幽爽。又峰回路转,不知几重,至谷底,乱石堆积,道不通,乃返。

游温宿之男人谷与女人谷,则有堕入红尘、耽于欢娱之思。游库车之神秘大峡谷,则有远离尘世、心境澄明,神游方外、超凡脱俗之念矣!(新华网龙明姬的博客)

  • 标签:散文 
  • Re:散文:天山大峡谷游记(转帖)

    作者[孙守仁] 发表于[2011-11-22 9:06:44]
    孙守仁呵呵!没去过天山大峡谷,通过游记可以略知一二,也是很惬意的!

    原创

    作者[原创(游客)] 发表于[2016-9-6 18:13:04]
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    原创

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    原创

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